Newmarket Roofers fits uPVC fascias, soffits and guttering for homeowners in Cottenham, and we want every installation to last - which means telling you what to do after we leave.
The fascia board runs along the eaves of your roof, fixed to the ends of the rafters. It carries the guttering and keeps the edge of the roof weather-tight. The soffit closes the gap underneath the fascia between the board and the wall, protecting the roof void from birds, damp, and cold air. The guttering catches rainwater falling from the roof and directs it to downpipes and away from the walls and foundations.
When these components are in good condition, they do their job quietly and invisibly. When they fail - through rot, cracking, blocked outlets, or sagging runs - the problems that follow can reach deep into the roof structure and the walls of the house. A rotten fascia left alone will eventually allow water to the rafter feet, and timber rot at that point is a much more expensive repair.
Where existing fascias, soffits and guttering are beyond repair, a full replacement starts with removing the old system entirely. Before new boards go on, the rafter feet are inspected. Any that have softened or rotted are cut out and replaced with treated timber - there is no point fitting new uPVC boards over compromised structure. Skipping this step is the most common reason a replacement job fails prematurely.
New uPVC fascia boards are then fixed to sound rafter feet. Soffit panels slot into the fascia and are fixed at the wall end. Guttering brackets are screwed into the fascia at the correct pitch - typically around 3mm of fall per metre toward the downpipe, so water flows freely rather than ponding in the gutter. Gutter runs are clipped in, joints sealed, downpipes fitted. All our work is carried out from scaffold or a mobile access tower, not from a ladder leaned against the gutter.
Modern uPVC profiles do not rot, do not need painting, and carry a surface finish that resists fading and discolouration for many years. They are available in white, anthracite grey, black, and woodgrain finishes. The quality of the profile matters - thin or budget-grade uPVC can crack and discolour within a decade, while heavier commercial-grade profiles will outlast several sets of guttering.
Soffits can be solid or vented. Vented soffits have small perforations that allow air into the roof void, reducing condensation and the risk of damp building up in the insulation and rafters. Most modern building standards expect roof voids to be ventilated, so if your existing soffits are solid, it is worth switching to vented when you replace.
A full uPVC fascia, soffit and guttering replacement on a semi-detached house in the Cambridge area typically costs between £1,500 and £3,000. A larger detached property, or one with more than two elevations of guttering, commonly runs from £2,500 to £4,500 or more, particularly if rafter-foot repairs are required. Individual repair jobs - resealing a gutter joint, replacing a bracket, fitting a new downpipe section - generally fall in the range of £80 to £300 depending on access and scope.
These are typical UK market figures. Any quote should set out materials, labour and VAT separately so you can compare properly. Standard fascia, soffit and gutter replacement is subject to VAT at the standard rate. The 0% VAT rate currently available on roof and loft insulation (until 31 March 2027 under current rules) does not apply to fascia or gutter work.
Replacing like-for-like fascias, soffits and guttering on a standard domestic property does not normally require planning permission or building regulations approval. If your property is listed or in a conservation area, check with your local planning authority before any work starts.
This is the part of the job that most contractors do not explain. A good installation will last many years, but only if it is not allowed to deteriorate through neglect. The good news is that uPVC systems need very little maintenance - but that little bit matters.
Blocked gutters are the most common cause of premature gutter failure. Leaves, moss from the roof, wind-blown debris and bird material all accumulate over time. Once a gutter is blocked, water backs up and either overflows onto the wall or sits in the gutter run where it can freeze in winter, expanding and cracking the gutter or loosening brackets.
Gutters in a property near trees should be cleared at least twice a year - once in late autumn after the leaves have fallen, and once in late spring when moss and wind-blown debris have built up over winter. Properties without overhanging trees may need clearing once a year, but after any significant storm it is worth checking that the downpipe outlet is clear.
Clearing gutters does not require a roofer. A purpose-made gutter scoop, a bucket and a stable ladder to the gutter level is enough for most single-storey work. For two-storey gutters, a telescopic gutter tool used from the ground is safer than working at height from a ladder without the right support. Avoid reaching sideways from a ladder - it is how most gutter-cleaning accidents happen.
After a period of heavy rain, stand back from the house and watch the gutters while it is still raining, or immediately after. Water should flow toward the downpipe and drop cleanly into the outlet. If you see water sitting in the middle of a gutter run, the fall may have been disturbed - perhaps a bracket has loosened or the fascia board has shifted slightly. This is not urgent, but it should be attended to before winter.
A sagging gutter section puts strain on the joints either side of it. Left alone, this leads to leaks at those joints. A roofer can re-fix or repack a bracket to restore the fall, which is a minor job if caught early.
Gutter joints use either a rubber union clip or a sealed connection. Over time, the rubber seal can harden and shrink, leading to a small drip at the joint. This is normal in older installations and is simple to fix - the joint is disassembled, the old seal cleaned away and a new seal or sealant applied. If you see a tide mark on your wall below a gutter joint, that is where to look first.
Downpipe joints can also work loose, particularly where the pipe passes through a shoe (the angled section at the bottom that directs water into the drain). Check these annually - a loose shoe will direct water straight at the base of the wall rather than into the drain.
uPVC does not need painting, but it does benefit from an occasional wipe down. Algae and green growth can form on the surface of soffits and fascias in shaded, damp spots. Left for years, this can eventually stain the surface. A soft cloth with a diluted uPVC cleaner (or a mild washing-up liquid solution) removes it without damaging the surface. Do not use abrasive cleaners or solvent-based products on uPVC - they scratch or cloud the finish.
Anthracite or dark-coloured uPVC can show fading more quickly than white if exposed to prolonged direct sun. This is a material characteristic, not a fault, and does not affect performance - but it is worth knowing if you are choosing a finish.
If your roof has a significant moss problem, the gutters below it will fill up faster than they otherwise would. Moss washes off the roof surface during rain and accumulates at the bottom of the slope, blocking outlets. Treating the roof for moss (biocide sprays are the standard approach) reduces the ongoing burden on the gutters. This is not urgent maintenance but is worth considering if you find yourself clearing the gutters more than twice a year.
If a gutter section comes down in a storm, isolate it - remove the loose section entirely rather than leaving it hanging where wind can swing it and damage the remaining run or the wall. A temporary repair with a bucket placed below the outlet is not elegant, but it prevents wall damage until a roofer can attend. Call us and we will assess what is needed.
If you notice the fascia board bowing or separating from the wall, do not ignore it. Fascia boards that have come loose expose the rafter feet to weather and can allow the guttering to pull away further. This kind of movement is usually caused by a bracket failure or by the board expanding and contracting in hot weather if the original fixings were too tight. A roofer can re-fix the board properly.
An annual visual inspection from ground level - looking for sagging, cracks, gaps, staining or vegetation growth - takes five minutes and is the best early-warning system you have. Every two or three years, or after any significant storm, it is worth having a roofer carry out a closer inspection from access height. Minor problems picked up at that stage are almost always cheaper to fix than the same problems left for five years.
Homeowners in Cottenham and the surrounding area, including those near Histon, Cambridge and Ely, can call Newmarket Roofers to arrange a fascia, soffit and gutter inspection at any point. We will give you an honest picture of the condition of the system and tell you what, if anything, needs attention.
If your fascias, soffits or guttering were replaced or repaired some time ago and you have never had them checked since, now is a good time. Call Newmarket Roofers to arrange a proper eaves inspection - it is the simplest way to avoid an expensive problem further down the line.
No obligation · We usually respond within 2 hours
Storm damage, active leak, damaged ridge - we aim to be on-site within 24 hours.
