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New Roofs in Girton

If your roof in Girton is showing signs of age or failure, Newmarket Roofers handles everything from strip-off to ridge - slate, clay and concrete tiles.

New Roofs · Girton

Expert New Roofs
in Girton

When a Repair Is No Longer Enough

Most roofs do not fail overnight. The decision to replace rather than repair is one that creeps up on homeowners, often after several rounds of patching that have added cost without solving the underlying problem. Knowing the warning signs early means you can plan properly, get accurate quotes and avoid the kind of emergency spend that happens when a roof is left too long.

Newmarket Roofers carries out new roofs across Girton and the surrounding villages, as well as Newmarket itself and nearby towns including Histon, Cambridge, Ely and Bury St Edmunds. Whether the job is a full re-roof of an older property, a new roof on a self-build or a pitched roof on an extension, we handle the whole project from the first strip to the finished ridge.

Warning Signs Your Roof May Need Replacing

A few slipped or cracked tiles can almost always be repaired. The following signs suggest the roof as a whole has reached the end of its serviceable life and that continual repair is no longer cost-effective.

  • Widespread cracked or missing mortar on the ridge and hips. When mortar fails along the entire ridge rather than at one or two points, the underlying felt and battens are often deteriorating at the same rate.
  • Sagging or uneven roof planes. A roof surface that dips or ripples between rafters usually means the sarking felt has failed, water has been sitting on the deck and the timbers beneath are softening.
  • Daylight visible in the loft. Any daylight coming through at the eaves, around the chimney stack or between tiles means the roof is no longer weathertight. This is a structural warning, not a cosmetic one.
  • Persistent damp patches on top-floor ceilings. Occasional damp after severe weather can be a tile or flashing problem. Damp that returns after every rain, even when individual repairs have been done, is a sign the overall system is failing.
  • Granule loss and streaking on older concrete tiles. Concrete interlocking tiles have a pigmented coating. When that coating breaks down, the tiles become porous. They absorb water, freeze in winter and begin to crack from the inside out.
  • Felt visible and crumbling at the eaves. On older properties, the original bitumen felt was not designed to be the roof's last line of defence indefinitely. When it becomes brittle and starts to break apart at the verges or eaves, it can no longer channel water into the guttering.
  • A roof over 50 to 60 years old with no known replacement history. Natural slate in good condition can outlast this comfortably, but original concrete tiles, ridge mortar, lead flashings and timber battens from the 1960s and 1970s all have finite lives.

What Actually Causes Roofs to Fail

Understanding why a roof has failed helps you ask better questions when getting quotes, and makes it easier to judge whether a contractor is being thorough or just selling you the minimum.

Batten failure. Tiling battens are the horizontal timbers the tiles hang from. They are typically 38mm by 25mm and, on older roofs, were often untreated softwood. Once the original felt breaks down and water reaches the battens regularly, they rot. When battens rot, tiles lose their firm seating and begin to slip - which looks like a tile problem but is actually a structural one. A proper re-roof replaces all battens, not just the visibly damaged ones.

Felt degradation. Modern roofs use breathable membrane underlay. Older roofs used bitumen-based felt, which is not breathable. Condensation from inside the house collects on the underside of non-breathable felt, accelerating rot in the battens and rafters below. Replacing the felt alone is not possible without removing the tiles, so a re-roof is the only logical time to upgrade.

Failed lead flashings. Lead around chimney stacks, in valleys and at the junction between a pitched roof and a wall is among the first things to fail. Lead work typically lasts 50 to 70 years. Flashings that have been patched with lap sealant, frame sealant or roofing tape are a short-term fix. A re-roof is the right time to cut and dress new lead properly.

Mortar shrinkage on ridges and hips. The mortar bedding ridge tiles is exposed to freeze-thaw cycles every winter. It shrinks as it ages. Once it begins to crack, water gets underneath and the ridge tiles become loose. A loose ridge tile does not stay loose - frost, wind and gravity do the rest. Re-bedding one or two ridge tiles is straightforward, but when the problem runs the entire length of the ridge, the cost of re-bedding approaches the cost of replacing with a dry-fix ridge system that does not rely on mortar at all.

Poorly installed previous work. A significant number of roof failures come down to inadequate work done in the past rather than age alone. Common examples include: tiles re-hung on rotten battens, flashings tucked rather than properly dressed into masonry, valley tiles laid without an undercourse, and ridge tiles re-mortared with the wrong mix. If a previous contractor cut corners, the only way to see the extent of the problem is to strip the roof.

The Process: What a Full Re-Roof Involves

A new roof is not just new tiles. Here is what a thorough job looks like, so you know what to expect and what to check any quote covers.

  • Strip-off. All existing tiles, battens and felt are removed. The condition of the rafters, fascias and soffits is assessed at this stage. Any rotten or undersized timber should be replaced before the new roof goes on.
  • New felt or breathable membrane. Laid over the rafters, lapped correctly at the joints, dressed into the guttering at the eaves.
  • New treated battens. Tiling gauge (the spacing of the battens) is set to match the tile being used. Getting this wrong causes tiles to sit proud, slide or fail to interlock.
  • Tile fixing. Current best practice fixes every tile mechanically, not just every fifth course. In exposed positions, nailing or clipping every tile is standard. Ask any contractor what their fixing pattern is.
  • Lead and flashing work. New lead at all abutments, chimney stacks and valleys. Dressed in steps into the mortar joints of brickwork, not just surface-applied.
  • Ridge and hip finish. Either dry-fix mechanical ridge or mortar-bedded ridge depending on the tile specification and customer preference. Dry-fix has no mortar to crack or fall, which is why most new builds now specify it.
  • Clear-up and disposal. All stripped material removed from site. Old tiles weigh considerably more than most people expect - a typical semi-detached can produce several tonnes of waste.

What a New Roof Typically Costs

The cost of a full re-roof varies depending on tile specification, roof complexity, chimney stacks and the condition of the underlying timbers. Natural slate sits at the higher end of the market; concrete interlocking tiles at the lower. Prices will also vary with roof size, pitch and access.

Be cautious of quotes that seem unusually low. A low price usually means something is not being done: battens not being replaced, felt not being upgraded, or lead not being included. Ask every contractor to quote like-for-like and to itemise what the price includes.

Materials: Slate, Clay or Concrete?

We work with all three main tile types. Each has its place depending on the property, the planning context and the budget.

Natural slate is the premium option. Welsh or Spanish slate laid properly will outlast the building. It is the right choice where planning requires it, on heritage properties, or where the homeowner simply wants the best possible material. It is also the heaviest, so the roof structure must be confirmed to handle the load.

Clay plain tiles are a traditional choice for many older properties. They weather naturally, carry planning authority approval in conservation areas, and have a lifespan measured in generations. They are more labour-intensive to lay than interlocking tiles because of the double-lap method used.

Concrete interlocking tiles cover the majority of post-1960s housing. They are cost-effective, widely available and carry a long manufacturer finish life. The coating does degrade over time, which is what causes the streaking and moss growth common on older concrete roofs.

Choosing a Roofing Contractor: What to Ask

For a job of this size, the contractor you choose matters as much as the materials. A few practical questions worth asking before you sign anything:

  • Will you replace all the battens and felt, or just what is visibly damaged?
  • What fixing pattern do you use for the tiles, and does it meet current BS 5534 requirements?
  • Are the lead flashings included, and will they be properly stepped into the masonry?
  • Is ridge work included, and will it be dry-fix or mortar-bedded?
  • How will the waste be removed and disposed of?
  • Can you provide a written, itemised quote so I can compare it fairly with others?

Any experienced contractor will answer these questions without hesitation. Vague answers or reluctance to detail what is included is a reason to look elsewhere.

Get a Quote for Your Girton Property

If your roof is showing any of the warning signs above, the sensible first step is a proper survey - not just a look from the ground. Call Newmarket Roofers to arrange a roof inspection and a written quote for the work involved. We cover Girton, Histon, Cambridge, Ely, Newmarket, Bury St Edmunds and the villages between them.

Why choose Newmarket Roofers?

  • Free survey and itemised quote
  • Fixed price - no surprises
  • Fully insured, local team

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