Newmarket Roofers installs new roofs in Fordham and the surrounding villages, handling everything from strip-off to ridge in slate, concrete tile and clay tile.
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A new roof is one of the largest single investments you will make in a property. Whether you are re-roofing an older house, covering a new extension or starting from scratch on a self-build, the work runs in a clear sequence: stripping the existing covering, inspecting and replacing any damaged roof timbers, fitting new battens, laying the underlay, then fixing the tiles or slates from eaves to ridge. Every stage has to be right before the next one begins.
We work with natural slate, concrete tiles and clay tiles across Fordham and the surrounding area. Each material has different weight, fixing requirements and lifespan, so the choice affects not just appearance but the loading on your roof structure and the detailing at flashings, valleys and verges.
Natural slate is the most durable option. A well-fixed slate roof can remain sound for well over a century. It is heavier than concrete tile, so older roofs need their timbers checked before re-slating. Slate is also more expensive per square metre, but the long service life often makes it cost-effective on a property you plan to keep.
Concrete tiles are the most common choice on post-war properties. They are reliable, widely available in a range of profiles and colours, and straightforward to source for future repairs. A concrete tile roof installed properly typically performs well for several decades before attention is needed.
Clay tiles suit older and period properties where matching the original look matters. Handmade clay tiles in particular weather to a character that concrete never quite replicates. They are worth considering on any property where planning or conservation constraints apply, or simply where you want the roof to age well.
A full re-roof on a typical semi-detached house in this area runs from roughly £5,000 to £12,000 depending on the roof size, pitch, material choice and how much timber work is needed. Slate and clay tile sit at the higher end; concrete tile at the lower. Those figures are for the complete job: scaffold, strip-off, timber repairs, underlay, battens, tiles or slates, and all the ridge and verge work.
Extensions and outbuildings are smaller jobs and cost accordingly, but the rates per square metre are similar because the setup costs do not scale down proportionally. A separate flat-roof section can be covered in EPDM rubber membrane or layered felt, both of which are straightforward to maintain and repair over the years.
This is where most customers go wrong. A low quote looks appealing until you discover what has been left out, or realise three months later that the work was not done to a standard that will last. Here is what to check before you sign anything.
A price written on the back of a card is not a quotation. Ask for a document that sets out what will be stripped, what timber work is included, what underlay specification is being used, what the tile or slate is, how the ridge will be finished, and what scaffolding is included. If a contractor is not willing to write that down, move on.
An itemised quote also lets you compare like for like when you have two or three prices in front of you. A quote that is £1,500 cheaper than the others may be using a thinner underlay, omitting a lead valley, or pricing for a budget concrete tile when you asked for natural slate. You cannot tell unless the quote itemises the work.
When the old roof comes off, the roofer will be able to see the rafters, ridge board, hip rafters and wall plates clearly for the first time in decades. A common problem is rot at the feet of rafters where water has tracked back under the eaves, or a sagging ridge board. Ask the contractor before work starts: how will timber repairs be priced? Will you be notified before they proceed, and will any additional cost be agreed in writing before work continues?
A contractor who says "we'll just sort it and add it on" is not one you want on your roof. Legitimate additional work happens, but it should be agreed in writing at an agreed rate before the roofer picks up a saw.
Ask who erects and removes the scaffold, whether it is included in the price, and how long it will be on the property. Scaffold left up longer than agreed can mean delay costs if it is hired rather than owned. Also check whether the scaffold plan covers the full perimeter of the roof, or only one elevation. A re-roof typically needs full perimeter access for both safety and practical reasons.
Stripped tiles, old battens and underlay add up to a significant volume of waste. Ask where it goes: is a skip included in the price, or will the contractor load it into a van and take it to a licensed tip? Ask whether the cost of skip hire is fixed or whether overrun charges could appear. Gardens and driveways can be damaged by heavy materials, so confirm how the access and working area will be protected.
Ask to speak to or see the work of customers whose roofs were completed at least two years ago. A roof looks fine on the day it is finished. The real test is how it performs after two or three winters of rain, frost and wind. Any contractor who cannot point you to previous customers is one whose track record you cannot assess.
Where online reviews exist, read them critically. Look for detail in the positive reviews and pay close attention to how any negative reviews were handled. A one-star review followed by a professional, factual response tells you more than a hundred five-star reviews with no text.
Mortar-bedded ridge tiles were the standard finish for decades, but mortar cracks and loosens as it weathers. Dry-fix systems use a mechanical fixing with a ventilated cap, which removes the maintenance cycle of re-pointing the ridge every ten to fifteen years. Ask any contractor quoting for your roof whether dry-fix is included in the specification, or whether they are pricing for a mortar bed. Either can be done well, but you should know which you are getting and what the long-term maintenance difference is.
Stripping an existing roof takes one to two days on a typical house. Tiles and slates are loaded out by hand or via a chute to a skip or lorry below. The old underlay and battens come off next, leaving the bare timber structure. This is the inspection point: any damaged or undersized rafters, a deflected ridge board, or rot at the eaves should be identified and photographed at this stage before the new roof goes on.
If a contractor skips the inspection stage or cannot show you photographs of the timber condition before boarding up, that is a warning sign. Once the new underlay and battens go down, you cannot check what is underneath without stripping again.
Extension roofs are often simpler jobs in terms of area, but the junction with the main house roof needs careful detailing. The step flashing where a lean-to or cat-slide roof meets a wall, and the valley where a side extension meets the main roof, are the two areas most likely to cause a leak if they are rushed. Ask specifically how these junctions will be detailed and what material will be used: code 4 lead is the standard for step flashings.
We carry out new roof installations in Fordham and the surrounding area. If you are ready to get a price for a new roof, call us to arrange a survey so we can give you an accurate written quotation based on what is actually there.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
