Newmarket Roofers handles new roofs in Wicken from the first inspection right through to final clean-up, working with slate, concrete tiles and clay tiles on self-builds, extensions and full re-roofs.
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A new roof is not simply swapping old tiles for new ones. Whether you are re-roofing an older property in Wicken or putting a roof on a new extension, the job covers structure, weatherproofing layers, ventilation and the finish you see from the street. Getting any one of those wrong costs more to fix later than it did to do right the first time.
We work with natural slate, concrete tiles and clay tiles. Each material has its own weight, fixing method and expected lifespan, so the choice affects everything from the size of the roof timbers to the type of underlay and the detailing around chimneys and valleys. We talk through the options with you before a single batten is lifted.
Before any price is agreed, we look at the existing roof structure properly. On a re-roof, that means checking the rafters, purlins and ridge board for rot or movement. Timber that looks sound from the loft hatch can still be softened at the ends where it meets the wall plate, and that only becomes clear when you get up close.
We also check the fascias, soffits and any existing guttering, because these often need attention at the same time as the roof. Doing it in two separate visits wastes scaffold time and costs more in the long run.
On a self-build or extension, we work from the structural drawings and confirm that the specified pitch and timber sizes match the chosen tile or slate. A pitch that suits a concrete tile may not drain quickly enough for a plain clay tile, and the architect's spec is not always updated when the material changes late in the project.
Safe scaffold is not optional. On a two-storey property the scaffold needs to be fully boarded and fitted with edge protection. We arrange this before stripping begins so there is no period where the roof is open and the access is inadequate.
Neighbours are usually affected during scaffold erection and removal, particularly on terraced or semi-detached properties. Letting them know a day or two before is straightforward courtesy and avoids the kind of complaint that holds up a job.
On a re-roof, the existing tiles, battens and felt come off first. This is when the true condition of the structure reveals itself. Common problems found at this stage include: rotten wall plates along the eaves, damaged or missing noggins between rafters, and rafters that have spread slightly over decades, pushing the walls outward. None of these is unusual in an older property, and all of them need to be addressed before the new roof goes on.
Stripping is noisy and generates a lot of waste. Old concrete tiles in particular are heavy and break during removal. We load skips or tipper vehicles directly from the scaffold where possible to keep the garden clear.
Old asbestos cement ridge tiles and some pre-1980s roofing felt contain materials that require specialist disposal. If there is any possibility of this on your property, it should be confirmed before stripping starts, not during it.
Any timber repairs identified in the inspection or during strip-off are carried out before new materials go on. Replacing a couple of rafter feet or a section of wall plate is straightforward at this stage. The same repair after the new roof is complete means removing tiles again.
Where a flat-to-pitch conversion is involved, or where a new extension roof ties into an existing one, this is the stage where the structural carpentry is completed. Getting the ridge height and rafter lengths right at this point means the finished roof sits true rather than showing a visible hump or sag where the new and old sections meet.
Modern roofing underlay is breathable rather than the old torch-on or loose-laid impermeable felt. Breathable underlay allows moisture vapour from inside the house to escape through the roof structure rather than condensing on the underside of the tiles and soaking into the timbers. The difference to timber condition over twenty or thirty years is significant.
Battens are fixed across the rafters at a gauge calculated for the specific tile or slate being used. The gauge determines how much of each tile is exposed to the weather. Manufacturers specify minimum and maximum gauge values, and fixing outside those values voids any manufacturer finish warranty, regardless of how the roof looks on the day.
Counterbattens run along the rafters underneath the horizontal battens where the roof pitch or exposure level warrants them. They create a drainage channel behind the batten so any water that gets past the tiles drains to the eaves rather than sitting on the underlay.
Tiles and slates are fixed from the eaves upward. Eaves tiles are typically a shorter cut to start the double lap correctly. Every tile manufacturer specifies the number of fixings per tile and the position of those fixings, and those specs vary between products. A tile that sits on a batten without mechanical fixing may stay in place for years, but in wind it can lift and slide, which is how tiles end up in gardens.
Natural slate is fixed differently from concrete or clay tiles. Each slate is holed and nailed. The hole position and the nail length matter: too shallow and the nail corrodes at the surface; too deep and the slate cracks from the back when walked on. Experienced slaters know this by feel as much as by measurement.
Valleys, where two roof slopes meet, are either open-cut (with a metal valley gutter visible between the tiles) or close-cut (where the tiles are cut and bedded tight to a hidden gutter). Both approaches work when done properly. Open valleys are easier to inspect and clear of debris; close-cut valleys look neater but need precise cutting.
The ridge is the highest point and the most exposed. Traditional mortar-bedded ridge tiles are still widely used, but dry-fix ridge systems are now common on new work. Dry fix uses a mechanical clip system and flexible seal rather than mortar, which cracks over time as the roof moves with temperature changes. A dry-fix ridge on a new roof avoids the maintenance cycle of re-bedding every fifteen to twenty years.
Hips and verges follow the same logic. Mortar verges can be undercut by frost and wind, eventually lifting and allowing water in at the edge of the roof. Dry-fix verge systems grip the tile from above and do not rely on mortar adhesion.
Lead flashings seal the junction between the roof and any vertical surface: chimney stacks, parapet walls, dormer cheeks and soil pipes. Lead is the standard material because it is malleable, long-lasting and can be dressed tightly into brickwork joints. Code 4 lead (1.8 mm thick) is the minimum for most stepped and cover flashings. Code 5 is used for back gutters behind chimneys, which collect more water and take more wear.
Poorly fitted flashings are the single most common source of water ingress on an otherwise well-tiled roof. The flashing needs to be tucked into a raked mortar joint, not just pushed against the surface and sealed with mastic. Mastic fails within a few years; lead bedded into the joint lasts decades.
Building regulations require adequate ventilation in the roof space to prevent condensation. On a cold roof (uninsulated at rafter level), this means an air gap at eaves and ridge. On a warm roof (insulated between and over the rafters), the requirements differ. Getting this wrong leads to condensation damage that can be extensive before it is noticed.
Ridge ventilation tiles, soffit ventilation strips and in-line tile vents all serve the same purpose but suit different roof constructions. The choice should be made before battening starts, not added as an afterthought.
When the tiles and all associated works are done, the scaffold comes down and the area around the property is cleared. Tile fragments, nails and broken slate can remain in gutters or on paths if the clean-up is cursory. A thorough final check of the gutters and downpipes, and a walk-round of the garden and drive, is part of leaving the job properly finished.
You should expect to be able to walk around the property and see straight ridge lines, no visible mortar gaps, consistent tile courses and lead flashings that sit flush against the wall. From inside the loft, the underlay should be taut with no sags between rafters, and no daylight visible at the eaves or verge.
We cover Wicken and the surrounding villages, working regularly across to Soham, Ely and Newmarket. Jobs in nearby towns such as Bury St Edmunds, Cambridge and Haverhill are also within our working area. If you are not sure whether we cover your location, call and ask directly.
Our base is in Newmarket, which puts us well placed for work across this part of Suffolk and into Cambridgeshire.
If you are planning a new roof in Wicken, call us to arrange a roof survey. We will look at the structure, discuss the material options that suit your property and give you a clear picture of what the job involves before any commitment is made. There is no point pricing a job without seeing what is actually there.
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Call any time. Calls are answered day and night and passed straight to our roofers.
